How to Identify Vintage Chanel Costume Jewellery
A Chanel signature is a starting point for research, not a verdict. Good identification brings the entire object into view: front, reverse, fastening, construction, marks, materials and any documented history.
Begin with a documented comparison
The Metropolitan Museum of Art records a Chanel necklace made by Gripoix around 1938 in glass and metal. Its record explains the collaboration and the glass-making technique. This is a useful reminder that Chanel costume jewellery encompasses much more than one familiar logo or one kind of pearl.
Compare a candidate with a museum record, a reliably dated catalogue or a clearly documented example. Match the construction and proportions, not simply the decorative motif. Do not transfer the date of a reference object to a similar-looking piece.
Read the whole object
- Request sharp, unfiltered photographs of every mark and of the full reverse.
- Compare a pair of earrings together, including the clips or posts.
- Look for disclosed missing stones, replaced components, surface wear and repairs.
- Ask which evidence supports the seller’s date and designer attribution.
A box, logo, stamp or attractive photograph cannot settle authenticity on its own. If evidence conflicts or important details are missing, leave the attribution open rather than forcing a date from an online stamp chart.
Buying at The Refashion
We inspect and authenticate our inventory in-house. Our review is not certification by Chanel. Read the item-specific description and photographs, and ask Kate about anything unclear.
Explore current Chanel jewellery.
Research reference: The Met, Chanel and Gripoix necklace, circa 1938.
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